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If there is a tomboy Barolo, this ’01 Riserva from La Morra’s organic winemaker Eraldo Viberti is it. You’ll find roses and violets on the nose, dried cherries and berries on the palate, and baking spices throughout--but all of these feminine elements are touched with a sexy gamey component, a good fistful of earth and a swath of warm saddle leather. A rustic take on Barolo, this ruby red ’01 will please wine-lovers who enjoy unconventional beauty. Drinking for the next decade.